Thursday, January 28, 2010
Have some old large format film holders sitting around? Use them as picture frames!
Hang them on a wall or put them in a stand.
Don't have any but like this idea? Click HERE
to shop KEH Camera's selection of film holders.
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
Shooting "Real" TTV:
You may be wondering what to do with your old film cameras that may or may not be in working condition. An interesting way to combine old and new technology is to shoot through the viewfinder
, or TTV
. One of the most common cameras being used for this technique is the Kodak Duaflex, but any camera with a large waist level type viewfinder will do.
The Duaflex has a convex viewfinder which creates a nice edge effect.
In addition to the Duaflex, you will need a digital SLR with a macro lens. A lens with an extension tube or a close up filter would also work. In order to keep most of the light out and avoid glare on the viewfinder, you will also need material to build a shade which you will shoot the viewfinder through. I used cardboard and duct tape that I spray painted black. To determine the height of the box, focus the SLR and lens you are using on the viewfinder so that it fills as much of the shot as possible and measure the distance between the SLR camera and the top of the Duaflex (or other viewfinder model).
My finished product looked like this:
The images have a vintage feel with the immediacy that comes with using digital technology. This technique is also nice for creating texture and a different look without using Photoshop.
Shooting "Fake" TTV:
You can also create this effect in Photoshop if you take one shot TTV on a white background to use as a "filter", or download a pre-made TTV filter.
Once you have the TTV image, pick any image you would like to transform.
Open both images in Photoshop. Select "all" in your TTV image and copy your selection. Now click on your regular image and paste the TTV image into this image (I resized my image to more closely match the TTV image). You will not be able to see through the pasted TTV shot until you select the layer with the TTV image and switch the drop down menu from normal to multiply. Now you can choose to manipulate the opacity until the desired effect is produced. I also selected my background layer and adjusted the brightness a little higher since the TTV layer darkened the original layer.
Either way you do it, this process produces a fun effect that is rapidly growing in popularity!
Monday, March 08, 2010
It's March, and Saint Patrick's Day is right around the corner. Luckily we just received this pot of gold!
The Leica R3 Gold with 50 1.4 lens. These were produced in 1979 to commemorate the 100th birthday of Oskar Barnack, the inventor of the Leica camera. Body is covered in black lizard skin and 24 carat gold plated with matching gold plated lens. Edition of 1,000 produced. On top of the prism housing is Barnacks signnature with the dates 1879-1979.
This camera won't be in stock long, so act fast to own this little beauty!Click HERE to shop KEH Camera's selection of Leica R cameras and accessories.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
There are a few different issues that can cause light leaks. If you're unfamiliar with what a light leak is, it is basically a space on the camera that allows light to "leak" into the inside and therefor over exposing the film. It will sometimes cause a white or red area on the film/print that shouldn't be there. If the leak is bad enough, it can fog your entire image.
One of the main causes of light leaks is bad light seals. In most 35mm and medium format camera, the seals are made up of a foam padding. The foam deteriorates over time. Foam is typically found around the entire back door of the camera, above the mirror, and around the focusing screen and prism (in cameras with detachable prism housings). In some cases, the foam may have been replaced by a rope type seal, which holds up better over time.
To check and make sure your foam is still good, it's simply a matter of stickiness and/or brittleness. First, check to see if the foam padding is still there. Then answer these questions: Is there little black specks falling out from the inside of the camera? Does the foam look moldy? Is there a sticky black substance around the edge of the door? If you answered yes to any of those, then your foam is bad. Having the foam replaced is a fairly inexpensive job, and can be done at most camera repair shops.
The red lines indicate where light can seep in through. Around the perimeter of the camera back, there should be a solid strip of foam. The shutter blades in the middle may also cause exposure issues if they are broken.
Foam padding at the hinge of the back door to a 35mm. This foam is bad, as it has some mold on the surface, is flaking away, one strip is missing, and is starting to stick.
Foam pad in lens mount above mirror
In medium format backs, there is also a type of light seal that may cause fogging of your film. These seals are not easily seen and not as easily fixed. Other things that can cause light leaks include casting cracks in the camera body, and holes in large format bellows. Casting cracks are thin cracks in the body of a camera. These happen most often around screws that have been tightened too much, if there is impact damage, and near delicate, small parts. Bellow holes can be seen if taken into a completely dark room with a flash light. Insert a flash light gently into the bellows and go slowly along all edges. If you see even the tiniest spot of light, it will effect your image. Neither casting cracks or bellow holes are easy to fix and usually must be fully replaced. In some cases, the bellows may be patched.
The only case in which a light leak is usually wanted
, is when shooting with a Holga
It's a good idea to check these things on a fairly regular basis, and super important to check if you've had the equipment sitting around for while, especially if it's been stored in a garage or attic. The temperatures and weather conditions cause the equipment components to break down must faster than if it were properly stored.
Friday, March 19, 2010
A special version of the No. 1A Kodak Junior. Produced between 1930-1931.
Folding camera covered in brown leather with art-deco design. Enameled metal inlay on shutter faceplate, front door, and on top of matching cedar-wood box.
Folding camera body with bellows.
Film type: 116 rollfilm. Picture size: 2 1/4 X 4 1/4". Manufactured in the US. Lens: Achromatic. Shutter: Kodo. Edition of: 10,000.
This camera originally came with brown bellows and in this one the original bellows have been replaced with black ones. We currently have one of these collectibles in stock in BGN for $189.00. Purchase online HERE
or call our sales department at (770) 333-4200 for assistance.